Off the Beaten Path: A Ladakh Sojourn Beyond the Usual

Opportunities like this don’t come often - when all four of us could take time off together, I knew we had to make it count. But planning a trip that catered to everyone’s preferences was no small task. The criteria were clear:

• Budget-friendly

• Cooler climes without rain

• A mix of adventure and wildlife

After much deliberation, Ladakh emerged as the perfect choice. But since we had already explored the popular spots on previous visits, we chose a more offbeat route this time - one that promised untouched beauty, rugged landscapes, and authentic experiences.

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✈️ Getting There

Mumbai to Leh has direct flights under three hours.

Tip: Grab a window seat near the emergency exit for the most spectacular Himalayan views!

Best time to visit: June to September (Summer season)

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🧭 Planning & Logistics

Finding a reliable local operator was key. After some research, Ladakh Travel Hub stood out for their responsiveness and understanding of ground realities.

Package Cost: ₹40,000 per person for 8 nights

Inclusions:

• Stay in 2 rooms

• SUV with driver

• Airport transfers

• Meals (MAP plan) - except at Leh

• Guide for Hemis National Park

• Permits and logistics

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💡 Important Acclimatisation Tips

• Hydrate adequately

• Avoid exertion for the first 24 hours

• Absolutely no alcohol or tobacco on arrival

Adjusting to Leh’s high altitude is critical before heading to even higher regions.

Our Itinerary

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Day 1 – Leh: Shanti Stupa at Sunset

Perched at 11,841 ft, Shanti Stupa is not just a viewpoint—it’s a spiritual symbol of peace, built in 1991 by Japanese monk Bhikshu Gyomyo Nakamura and consecrated by the 14th Dalai Lama.

Whether you go at sunrise or sunset, the panoramic views of Leh and the Zanskar range are surreal.

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Day 2 – Drive to Rumbak Village

Just an hour’s drive from Leh (Google Maps doesn’t even show the full route!), Rumbak lies deep inside Hemis National Park. With no motorable roads, the last stretch is an off-road experience.

Note: Homestays here don’t allow pre-booking—rooms are assigned on arrival. Be prepared for basic amenities:

• Compost toilets (yes, with mud instead of water)

• No bathrooms, so showers are out of the question

• Piping hot Ladakhi meals served with genuine warmth

We took a short evening hike to a nearby stupa and soaked in the silence of the mountains.

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Day 3 – Trekking in Rumbak

A scenic trail winds through open meadows and bubbling brooks, where chukars and magpies flutter around.

Chukar

Eurasian magpie

Known for snow leopard sightings in winter, Rumbak is a birder’s and trekker’s delight.

Weather here is unpredictable - sunny one moment, snowing the next!

We returned to Leh for a warm bath, soft beds, and a stroll through the bustling local market.

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Day 4 – Exploring SECMOL

A day of rest and reflection with a visit to the inspiring SECMOL School - a sustainable, student-led learning space envisioned by Sonam Wangchuk. A must-visit for those curious about eco-living and alternative education.

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Day 5 – Road Trip to Hanle

A 6-hour drive on butter-smooth, silken roads flanked by brown mountains and ochre plains makes this journey truly scenic.

Roadside signboards by Project Himank provide quirky entertainment along the way.

Stay:

• Padma Homestay (simple, clean, well-managed)

• Umlingla Residency (slightly more upscale)

Night skies in Hanle are some of the clearest in the world. Most homestays offer stargazing with telescopes for a nominal fee. Don’t miss the constellations, planets, and even the Milky Way, especially around new moon nights.

Milky Way

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Day 6 – Umling La: The World’s Highest Motorable Road

The road from Hanle to Umling La (19,024 ft) starts rough but turns into smooth curves along the stunning Indus River.

At the top:

• Freezing temperatures

• Change in time zone (IST gives way to China Standard Time!)

Top of Umling La

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Day 7 – Hanle to Tso Moriri

The drive offers glimpses of wild yaks, sheep, horses, and kiangs (Tibetan wild asses).

Kiang (Tibetan wild ass)

Tso Moriri Lake (altitude ~4000m), nestled in the Changthang plateau, is a dreamlike vision of turquoise waters ringed by snow-capped peaks. Spot birds like the bar-headed goose, ruddy shelduck, and horned lark along its shores.

Bar headed goose

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Day 8 – Return to Leh via Puga Hot Springs

Hidden in marshy meadows, Puga Hot Springs spurt sulphur-rich water from the earth’s belly. It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise, too.

Puga Hot Spring

Route options back to Leh:

1. Via Mahe – quicker (4–5 hrs)

2. Via Tso Kar & Upshi – longer but scenic (8–9 hrs)

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🥘 Food & Where to Eat in Leh

Must-try Ladakhi dishes:

• Momos – especially Tandoori & Kothe-style

• Thukpa / Thenthuk soup

• Chutagi (dumpling stew)

• Mutton Shepta

• Chicken Bagleb

• Mutton Pee Shee Soup

Recommended restaurants:

• The Tibetan Kitchen

• Chimath Tibetan Kitchen

• New Wazwan Planet

• Rendezvous Cafe & German Bakery

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🏨 Stay Highlights

• Himalayan Retreat, Leh

• Padma Homestay / Umlingla Residency, Hanle

• Korzok Eco Lounge, Tso Moriri

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🌟 Final Thoughts

This trip reminded us that Ladakh isn’t just about Pangong or Nubra—it’s about slowing down, tuning into nature, and embracing the uncomfortable as much as the beautiful.

From star-studded skies to compost toilets, from icy brooks to piping hot soups, this offbeat Ladakh adventure was unforgettable in every sense.

LIFE IS LIKE AN ICE CREAM, ENJOY IT BEFORE IT MELTS.

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