An Indonesian Odyssey
- Shabbir Baldiwala
- Apr 20, 2023
- 5 min read
Updated: Jul 6, 2024
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Hitherto, I have always traveled to Indonesia with a Dive group. This time I planned the entire vacation and diving on my own. So, it was but natural to have a few butterflies in the stomach. And in retrospect, I may take the liberty of saying that the itinerary including the hotels, dive centers and travel was spotless.
However, the airport paints an entirely different picture. A few tips for travelers landing at Denpasar airport, Bali:
The airport conundrum
Once the plane touches down, get your legs moving quickly, because you have a lot to do at the airport.
First of the queues - Visa on arrival payment - costs IDR 500,000 (USD 34).
Next - Immigration - This is a really long one. And if you are unlucky, you may land up with an officer who will probably discuss his marital and financial problems with you.
This is the longest hurdle to cross and if you do manage to take the long jump forward without tripping over, you shall be welcome to another queue where you need to fill an online form as a Customs declaration. Either you scan their QR code on your phone if you have an active net connection, or use their computer to do the same and generate a code for your next queue.
And thankfully, the last one is the least difficult. Just show your customs QR code and take the final leap to the exit.
And in all this hullabaloo, do not forget to collect your checked in bags from the carousel.
Please ensure you follow all steps in chronological order, or else you could land up wasting a hell lot of time. Ours lasted for a close 90 mins.
The arrival lounge gives you plenty of options for Forex exchange, Sim card purchase and transport to the city or an island.
NUSA PENIDA
is an island located near the southeastern Indonesian island of Bali and a district of Klungkung Regency that includes the neighboring small island of Nusa Lembongan and twelve smaller islands. The Badung Strait separates the island and Bali.
It is a volcanic island with flourishing flora and fauna. The interior of Nusa Penida is hilly.
Beautiful flowers and verdant vegetation greet us throughout the island.
Most of the beaches are found below a cliff and the erosion by natural forces has given rise to spectacular landforms.
Nusa Penida derives its name from the Balinese language, with “Nusa” meaning “island” and “Penida” meaning “priest”. Hence, Nusa Penida literally translates to “island of priests”. It holds cultural significance due to its name, reflecting the island’s historical
connection to Balinese Hinduism. In contrast, the Dutch referred to it as “Bandit Island” in 1900.
How to reach: Sanur harbor in Bali is the closest port to take the speedboat to NP. From Bali airport, 30 mins to Sanur by road and then another 30 mins by boat and you are in NP.
What to eat: There are a lot of cafés and eateries serving local food as well as continental gourmet.
A cool dragon fruit or a coconut water
on a hot sunny day may be the most refreshing thing you could ever find.
Sugar Daddy -A cool ice cream joint near the harbor, or Xi No Na Boba - an Indonesian boba drink, could be other good options.
What to do: Nusa Penida is a typical Indonesian island that offers a host of activities and sports. Scuba diving and Snorkelling are the main attractions here. It may be a great option for honeymooners too.
There are a lot of picturesque places to visit. The standouts are the Kelingking and Crystal beaches.
Scooters are available easily on rent at IDR 100,000 per day.
It is one of the most famous spots of Nusa Penida. Its unique rock formation resembles the backbone of a dinosaur and it’s even nicknamed T-Rex Bay on Google Maps.
The esplanade on the cliff offers breathtaking views of the sandy beach and turquoise sea.
The rushing in and receding of the waves on the beach creates a serene and picturesque view and one can’t stop admiring this grandeur of nature.
45 mins from the harbor. Roads are excellent and pleasant to drive on. Once there, you can park your vehicle at the top and trek down to the beach or enjoy the view from the top. Famous for its sunset, it could be a paradise for a photographer.
Close to the harbor, it is frequented for its crystal clear waters and beautiful beach. It's famous for its mesmerizing sunset views.
The wave erosion has given rise to its landmark cliff with an archway.
The crystal clear waters make it a good place for snorkeling and scuba diving.
Diving at Nusa Penida:
Supposedly tougher conditions here than many other dive sites. Colder temperatures underwater and stronger currents too.
"Manta point" is the main attraction at NP. It’s a cleaning station and Mantas keep frequenting this regularly.
Divers from Bali and other locations come here too.
The topography around the station is amazing too. Huge rock-like structures abound and divers can find navigating in between them fun.
"Crystal Bay" is another popular and beautiful site. It derives its name due to the crystal clear visibility underwater. We managed to spot the Mola Mola off season here. The corals and marine life are amazing.
There are a few dive sites to the North as well. "SD point" is a drift dive and has a beautiful coral garden.
Hotels in Nusa Penida
There are many hotels on this island. You can easily choose from any site like Booking.com. Our stay was at Saka Boutique hotel.
These guys are a thoroughly professional group. They are quite busy all throughout the week with fun diving, Discover Scubas, and SSI Open Water courses. Weekends have a packed schedule and a prior booking is advisable. We did 6 fun dives with them.
GILI TRAWANGAN
The Gili Islands are a group of 3 tiny islands – Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air – in Indonesia, near the coast of northwest Lombok Island. Trawangan has been commercialized for tourism and diving. Supposedly the party capital, Gili T as is famously known, is approx 15 sq km.
Cafés, restaurants, shops and hotels, line one side of the main road and the other side is lined by the beach. No motorized transport is allowed on the island. Bicycles, Electric bikes and horse carts (cidomos)
are the only available modes of commute, apart from walking or running on the beach.
There is only one port of entry for all boats on the island.
There is a Gili entry tax and Harbor exit tax to be paid while entering and leaving the island -IDR 10,000 each time.
Sitting in the beach cafés one can peacefully ‘sip’ in the delicious charm of the island, with the tranquil waves kissing the shores, the clip clop and jingling bells of cidomos, the fit and peppy bikers riding through the island, the prayers in the mosque, the colorful sarongs and bikinis, the quaint little shops selling local handmade souvenirs and colorful clothing….
The clip clop of the cidomo horses and the jingling of their bells reminded me of the Sherlock Holmes series and of the Alfred Noyes poem lines - …the highwayman came riding, riding …
Sunset views are an attraction here. Gili T’s panorama is flanked by Mount Rinjani in Lombok and Mount Agung in Bali. The picturesque peaks surrounded by white cotton clouds offer a majestic yet serene spectacle.
The island has 3 mosques. The largest is Masjid Agung Baiturrahman with a landmark tall white minaret and colorful domes.
Liquor is easily available at all bars and marts. Despite Gili T having a local authority, narcotics like ‘mushroom’ are openly sold.
Most of the hustle-bustle is towards the harbor. As you move away, the cafés and resorts get more elitist.
An average meal would cost approx IDR 200,000 (₹1000) per couple.
Special mention needs to be made of the Trawangan night market.
It’s a culinary delight. Fresh fish, lobsters, prawns, octopus, and the list is endless.
Just select your fish and they will grill it right in front of you. Depending on the size, it would cost between IDR 100,000 -200,000. Complimentary rice and vegetables are also served with the meal.
A fruit that caught our fancy was the
Snake fruit.
It is called Salak locally. The skin resembles snakeskin, hence the name.
Salak (Salacca zalacca) is a species of palm tree native to Java and Sumatra in Indonesia.
They are about the size and shape of a ripe fig, with a distinct tip. The pulp is edible. The fruit can be peeled by pinching the tip, which should cause the skin to slough off so it can be pulled away. The fruit inside consists of three lobes with the two larger ones, or even all three, containing a large inedible seed. The lobes resemble, and have the consistency of large peeled garlic cloves. The taste is usually sweet and acidic.
Diving at Gili T
One of the best advantages of diving here is that the sites are very close to the beach. The surface interval is not on the boat and after each dive, you get back to the shore. The dives are very calm and the water is warm. Corals are beautiful. Turtles are a common sight in most of the dive sites.
Famous for the relatively economical diving prices globally, it could be a great option to get your Scuba certification here.
Gili Divers
A very professional group affiliated to the SSI. They have 3 boat dives per day, 0900/1130/1430 hrs and occasionally a night dive. They take off from the beach across which means that there isn’t much walking to do. Dive sites are close by and hence the surface interval is always at the shore. Leo was our guide throughout the dives. His tips promise to make our diving a better experience henceforth.
Gili Divers Hotel
It is a mediocre hotel, predominantly meant for divers. Rooms are very small but have the basic facilities. If you are diving with them, it’s best to stay here.
BALI
Gili T to Bali is a neat 2 hrs by a fast boat. Padang bai should be the port to disembark at Bali if arriving from Gili. There is a free bus shuttle from the port to many locations in Bali. However, a taxi would be a quicker option.
For us, Bali was just a sort of layover to catch the flight the next day. And since Sanur is closest to the airport, we decided to spend the rest of the day at Sanur.
That was enough for us to catch a glimpse of this beautiful and vibrant city of Bali.
Frangipani trees can be found almost everywhere in Bali. The flowers are white, yellow or pinkish with a sweet mild fragrance.
Putat laut trees (also called fish poison tree) are grown along streets for decorative and shade purposes.
There are no tall structures in Bali since no building is allowed to be taller than the height of an average coconut tree, which is 15 meters!
Most of the houses have roof tops which are red slated with ornate carvings on the top and edges.
An ornate cuboidal totem with incense is usually found outside small houses or in the courtyard of bigger houses.
Balinese New Year
Nyepi is a day for the Hindu Balinese to dedicate themselves completely to connect more deeply with God through prayer, fasting and meditation. Acts of introspection of the Self, to evaluate the personal values they would bring into the new year.
The night before: Bhuta Yajna Ritual and Ogoh-Ogoh parades
Balinese men carry frightening statues up to 25 feet tall which are burnt after the parade to vanquish the evil spirit. There is noise and music on the roads.
The day of silence: Nyepi (New year)
The entire island is “closed”, including the airport as there will be no incoming or outgoing flights. The roads are off limits, as everyone is expected to stay indoors for 24 hours.
The day after: Ngembak Geni
Social activity picks up again very quickly the next day. As families and friends come together and socialize after staying indoors for 24 hours, they ask for forgiveness from one another as a way of letting go of the past.
Balinese traditions
The architecture is influenced by the Hindu and ancient Javanese culture.
Balinese people are known for their artistry. They have developed a sophisticated sculpting tradition that manifests in architecture rich with ornamentation.
Usually statues of gate guardians as twin dwarapalas flank entrances and bridges.The gates itself are richly decorated with kala's head, floral ornaments, and vajra or ratna pinnacles.
The roundabouts of Bali have enthralling sculptures.
One of them is the statue of the legendary Satria Gatot Kaca as we drive to the city from the Ngurah Rai International Airport
It depicts the fight between Karna and Ghatotkach (son of Bheem). Gatot Kaca sacrifices himself as a victim of Karna’s deadly weapon, Konta, (that can be used only one time) to save Arjuna.
Apart from decoration this sculpture is believed to lend spiritual protection and safety for all incoming and outgoing flights as Ghatotkach was responsible for air defense and security protection for the Pandava Kingdom.
Sometimes, when there are many options to choose from, selection becomes more difficult. The place that we stayed for the night, ticks off all the right boxes.
Easily one of the best options for staying in Bali. Economical pricing. Spacious rooms. A swimming pool. And walk a couple of minutes and you are at the beach front. Flanked by cafés, the walking/cycling path offers a picturesque stroll along the sea.
This was my third visit (and definitely not the last) to Indonesia. On all occasions, I have been to different islands. I dare say that the diversity that this country offers at each island may be unparalleled. But what remains common amongst all is the Indonesian hospitality.
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